De Diamondt en de Peerlberg: A Treasure in the World of Wine
De Diamondt en de Peerlberg: A Treasure in the World of Wine
When searching for a wine to enjoy, the crux of discovery is a bottle that transports the imbiber to a specific place and time. The wines of Paarl fulfill this search with exciting and truly unique wines. Among them unfolds a varied geography translated by producers of all sizes. A closer look indicates strong threads and a compelling central identity. What is it?
One word that emerges continuously in discussions of Paarl is “diversity.” Surrounded by mountains, with the Berg River flowing through, Paarl is home to a multitude of aspects and elevations, a near infinite number of soil types, and unique microclimates. Scale of production varies from tiny garagistes to large-scale producers like Fairview and KWV (the oldest bonded winery in South Africa). Growers and winemakers bring resumes ranging from new and excited to old and wise. Bottle prices swing from just a few Rand on the South African market to some of the most expensive exports leaving for the UK, Asia, Europe, and the United States. What does all this add up to? Some say Paarl is just too varied to have any sort of organization of image. The stronger argument, though, is that diversity is its core strength. Wines are as majestic as the glittering granite outcropping that gives the district its name and as varied as the Cape Floral Kingdom that surrounds its vineyards. The real question is where to start?
Paarl has been dubbed the “Red Route” due to the dominance of red grape vines which outnumber whites three to one. Even so, to ignore the whites can be a gross oversight. One South African winemaker recently remarked that “the most stunning wine I’ve tasted from Paarl this year is a 2011 Grenache Blanc from KWV.” Another, Johnathan Grieve of Avondale in Paarl, warns: “Don’t forget the whites! Though people think of Paarl as a warm growing region suited to Syrah, or Shiraz, microclimates are everywhere in Paarl. We make great reds, but our Chenin Blanc is definitely among our top wines.” The best way to become intimate with the district of Paarl, however, is to consider the wide range of red wines.
What about grape variety? A cornucopia is being grown in Paarl, from cool climate reds like Pinot Noir to the warm Mediterranean-climate staple Cinsault. Even hot-climate Spanish and Portuguese grapes fare well in Paarl (though many are used for fortified wines). That said, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah/Shiraz dominate the landscape, producing many of the best specimens of Paarl wines. Easy drinking and accessible examples include Plaisir de Merle’s Grand Plaisir, a wine that recalls the Washington blends of famed producer Mark Ryan, but with an added smoky, mineral-driven character that is clearly Paarl. The 2008 Pumphouse Shiraz by Backsburg shows us a wine that ages gracefully, combining the meatiness of Guigal’s Cote Rotie with the ripe fruit character of Mollydooker’s The Velvet Glove. On the other end, Rupert & Rothschild’s “Classique” is a bold, ready to quaff wine, guaranteed to compete with the ever popular Silver Oak. And then there’s a wine with no comparison: Pinotage, the Pinot Noir x Cinsault crossing unique to South Africa! Fairview’s bottling is a great example of what can be done with this wine. Here it provides the perfect accompaniment to a BBQ, or “Braai” as the South Africans say.
Soil also has its place, a major selling point for many winemakers in Paarl. Since the breakup of the KWV monopoly, there has been continued and significant growth of single vineyard and estate wines that place their value in smaller parcels with unique soils. Although soil types are often simplified to sandstone, granite, and shale, an almost infinite number exist in the region. Vilafonté is a winery that felt so attached to the concept of unique soil type that the wine itself is named after the dirt. The vilafontés soil, said to be the oldest in the world, dates back more than a million years. What does it give us? Grapes grown in it are heavily concentrated and make fine wines that can age for decades. The ancient, nutrient deficient soils of Paarl are also great at controlling vigorous varieties. Fairview is doing just that with their Cinsault vines, an especially vigorous variety, creating an easy drinking fruity wine with hints of spice and earth.
No matter what type of wine is desired, one is sure to find it in Paarl. So much more than simply the “Red Route,” it is a land providing a variety of wines that compete successfully on the World’s table! It is truly a district of diversity, where each bottle will take the consumer to a very special place and time. The joy of discovery will surely reward anyone who embarks upon an exploration of Paarl.
This essay was written as my submission in the second round entry of the 2016 Wines Of South Africa Sommelier Cup and earned the top score among essays written as part of the United States segment of the competition.
When searching for a wine to enjoy, the crux of discovery is a bottle that transports the imbiber to a specific place and time. The wines of Paarl fulfill this search with exciting and truly unique wines. Among them unfolds a varied geography translated by producers of all sizes. A closer look indicates strong threads and a compelling central identity. What is it?
One word that emerges continuously in discussions of Paarl is “diversity.” Surrounded by mountains, with the Berg River flowing through, Paarl is home to a multitude of aspects and elevations, a near infinite number of soil types, and unique microclimates. Scale of production varies from tiny garagistes to large-scale producers like Fairview and KWV (the oldest bonded winery in South Africa). Growers and winemakers bring resumes ranging from new and excited to old and wise. Bottle prices swing from just a few Rand on the South African market to some of the most expensive exports leaving for the UK, Asia, Europe, and the United States. What does all this add up to? Some say Paarl is just too varied to have any sort of organization of image. The stronger argument, though, is that diversity is its core strength. Wines are as majestic as the glittering granite outcropping that gives the district its name and as varied as the Cape Floral Kingdom that surrounds its vineyards. The real question is where to start?
Paarl has been dubbed the “Red Route” due to the dominance of red grape vines which outnumber whites three to one. Even so, to ignore the whites can be a gross oversight. One South African winemaker recently remarked that “the most stunning wine I’ve tasted from Paarl this year is a 2011 Grenache Blanc from KWV.” Another, Johnathan Grieve of Avondale in Paarl, warns: “Don’t forget the whites! Though people think of Paarl as a warm growing region suited to Syrah, or Shiraz, microclimates are everywhere in Paarl. We make great reds, but our Chenin Blanc is definitely among our top wines.” The best way to become intimate with the district of Paarl, however, is to consider the wide range of red wines.
What about grape variety? A cornucopia is being grown in Paarl, from cool climate reds like Pinot Noir to the warm Mediterranean-climate staple Cinsault. Even hot-climate Spanish and Portuguese grapes fare well in Paarl (though many are used for fortified wines). That said, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah/Shiraz dominate the landscape, producing many of the best specimens of Paarl wines. Easy drinking and accessible examples include Plaisir de Merle’s Grand Plaisir, a wine that recalls the Washington blends of famed producer Mark Ryan, but with an added smoky, mineral-driven character that is clearly Paarl. The 2008 Pumphouse Shiraz by Backsburg shows us a wine that ages gracefully, combining the meatiness of Guigal’s Cote Rotie with the ripe fruit character of Mollydooker’s The Velvet Glove. On the other end, Rupert & Rothschild’s “Classique” is a bold, ready to quaff wine, guaranteed to compete with the ever popular Silver Oak. And then there’s a wine with no comparison: Pinotage, the Pinot Noir x Cinsault crossing unique to South Africa! Fairview’s bottling is a great example of what can be done with this wine. Here it provides the perfect accompaniment to a BBQ, or “Braai” as the South Africans say.
Soil also has its place, a major selling point for many winemakers in Paarl. Since the breakup of the KWV monopoly, there has been continued and significant growth of single vineyard and estate wines that place their value in smaller parcels with unique soils. Although soil types are often simplified to sandstone, granite, and shale, an almost infinite number exist in the region. Vilafonté is a winery that felt so attached to the concept of unique soil type that the wine itself is named after the dirt. The vilafontés soil, said to be the oldest in the world, dates back more than a million years. What does it give us? Grapes grown in it are heavily concentrated and make fine wines that can age for decades. The ancient, nutrient deficient soils of Paarl are also great at controlling vigorous varieties. Fairview is doing just that with their Cinsault vines, an especially vigorous variety, creating an easy drinking fruity wine with hints of spice and earth.
No matter what type of wine is desired, one is sure to find it in Paarl. So much more than simply the “Red Route,” it is a land providing a variety of wines that compete successfully on the World’s table! It is truly a district of diversity, where each bottle will take the consumer to a very special place and time. The joy of discovery will surely reward anyone who embarks upon an exploration of Paarl.
This essay was written as my submission in the second round entry of the 2016 Wines Of South Africa Sommelier Cup and earned the top score among essays written as part of the United States segment of the competition.
Comments
Post a Comment